I did it! My first top!

So, having finally remembered how to use my machine, I decided to bite the bullet and try my hand at making an item of clothing. First decision was what to make. I have a stash of patterns I’ve collected from sewing magazines but I’ve never tried making any of them. Most of them are dresses and I decided I wasn’t quite ready to tackle zips or anything yet. Plus I really wanted to make something with what I had on hand.

So I dug this out:

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I was given this as part of my Christmas present a few years ago (thanks Mum and Dad), but had never done more than flick through it and imagine what I could make. After looking at the different projects, I decided to start at the beginning – the Sleeveless Shell Top. I figured it would be a good piece to start with as it included:

  • Only four pattern pieces
  • A simple button/loop fastening at the back
  • No sleeves to worry about
  • No bias binding – the neckline and armholes are finished with the facing

Seemed all good. Then I got the pattern sheet out… I mean – what on earth is this?!?

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Terrifying! It looks more like a blue print for a house or something.

Once I’d calmed down from my initial panic, I figured out which bits I needed and got tracing. After looking at the measurements I decided I needed to combine two sizes, so read May’s instructions on how to do that (which I think I managed ok).

Pattern ready to go, I got my fabric out. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough of the fabric I’d hoped to use, but I had a back up ready. Until I had two metres of fabric out on my kitchen table, I thought it was a decent size. Turns out oval tables aren’t ideal for laying out and pinning patterns, but I got there in the end (yes I could have used the floor, but this one would have tried to “help”…).

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Anyway, I got everything cut out ready to start. Thanks to my Sewing Guru (aka Mum), I knew how to transfer notches and to use tailors tacks for darts, so that bit wasn’t too daunting. I was ready to start!

At this point I should make it clear that it took around three days for me to get to this stage, making sure I’d cut everything out properly and that I’d got the grainline straight etc. It then took another couple of days before I was brave enough to remove the pattern paper and actually start sewing…

 

First job: staystitching the neckline. I’d never done this before, but it was fairly straightforward so no problems here. Then came the interfacing…

This should have been simple, especially as I’ve used interfacing before, but could I remember what I’d done? No…

Do I cut it to shape then attach? Or do I fuse the pattern pieces to the interfacing, then trim around them? I couldn’t for the life of me remember and a phonecall to the Sewing Guru wasn’t masses of help (“I think you can do it either way”). In the end, I cut the interfacing nearly to size with the pattern pieces, then trimmed once I’d fused everything together. Seemed to work ok, but any suggestions welcome. At least I didn’t get anything stuck on the iron (which I was worried about, to be honest).

Next up was darts. I felt more confident with these. I’ve done them a couple of times now, even if I’ve not finished the items they were part of. After that was shoulder seams, on both the outer top and the facing. Again, relatively simple – short, straight seams with straight stitch. Nothing to worry about there.

Then came the instruction “neaten the seams”. Not done this before but, following a quick check of the book, I now know how to do this. I used the zig-zag stitch option, with mixed results. I think I need to practice using my zig-zag stitch much more as I haven’t quite got the hang of it or of how close to go to the edge. It was fine to start off with but then I couldn’t quite get the tension right on later seams, even after a Skype conflab with the Sewing Guru.

Once I’d neatened the shoulder seams and the edges of the facing, it was time to attach the facing to the top at the neckline. I managed this without too many problems and wasn’t too fazed by clipping the seam allowance so it all sat flat.

Then came another new term – understitching. This turned out to be quite tricky – not helped by my thread running out partway along a seam that was going perfectly. But I got there in the end – thank heavens for quick unpickers.

After attaching the loop, it was time to attach the facing at the armhole and centre back. Again not too complicated, so I managed this without too much trouble. But then came the big moment – turning the facing through.

This would be when the top would really start to take shape. At this point, the diagrams in the book were more helpful than the instructions. I didn’t have a safety pin to hand but managed without too much trouble. I actually had something that looked like a top!

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At this point, it was relatively smooth sailing. Two straight side seams and one straight seam down the back. Pinning this properly was the biggest challenge. I was paranoid about my notches and seams not matching up so I put a pit either side of those to stop them shifting, then eased the rest of the seams together. Other than the seam neatening issue I mentioned above, sewing these seams wasn’t too much trouble.

In the book, it says to machine stitch the hem, but with the issues I’m having with zig-zagging I’ve decided to hem by hand. I’m more confident doing it that way and I know I can do a good job (if a slow one).

So there it is – a finished top (well nearly)! I don’t think it looks too bad. What do you guys think?

My finished top.

I’m partway round on the hem and have a button to sew on, but I was so proud of it, I couldn’t wait to share.

Back with a bang!

Last night saw the much anticipated return of the sewing bee. This is always one of the highlights of my year. The show is what inspired me to start sewing and each episode gives me new ideas for things I could make. And the new series seems to be no exception…

Returning to the sewing room is like reuniting with old friends, even though we’ve not yet met any of this year’s sewers.

This week’s (this season’s) first challenge is wrap skirts. As usual, while the sewers rummage through the stacks of fabric my initial thought is “I want the haberdashery”. Am I alone in this? To just pick up a pattern and be able to choose from such a range of fabrics there and then would be amazing.

Incidentally, have the desks/sewing stations always been different pastel colours? I’ve never noticed it before…

The finished skirts range from beautifully made (Therese’s, Ali’s and Peter’s really stood out to me) to a little messy (though I don’t think I’d have like Nicole’s even if it had gone perfectly – shiny and gold’s not my thing). It’s still a little early to tell much about our sewers yet though.

Next up is the transformation challenge (I still think of it as the alteration challenge). I think this is the part of the show where you can see the biggest change between now and the early season’s. In the first season they were given a specific task to do (change the neckline of this top, add some patch pockets on this skirt etc) and they were judged on execution as well as the difference they made to the garment. Over the seasons, this has shifted to more and more radical transformations. Sometimes I like the end results, sometimes I’m less impressed – although it’s always fun to see what everyone comes up with.

Taking two men’s shirts and creating an item of women’s clothing should sound bonkers, but having seen some of the previous transformations, nothing surprises me any more. I quite like the idea of trying this, but as Boyfriend only as two shirts total, cutting them up might not go down well…

Not sure I’d have ranked them exactly how the judges did (Liz and Therese’s were my favourites), but I’ve seen a lot of negative comments online about Peter’s dress. Now, while it might not be to my taste, I can appreciate the skill, creativity and amount of work that went into it. Yes, there was sewing involved. You actually saw him with a needle and thread. He may have draped it on the dummy to get the shape but then he sewed everything into place, just like we saw with Chinelo (sp?) a few years ago.

Right – rant over. On to made to measure. As I said in my last post, this is always my favourite challenge and where we finally get to see a bit more of who the sewers really are. My personal favourites were Liz’s (again), Therese’s (spot a pattern yet?) and Clare’s. Matt’s was very pretty and well made but I wasn’t keen on the fabric.

I’m not going to spoil who’s left and who got garment of the week, but here are my initial thoughts on each sewer so far:

  • Alex – his skirt could have been ok if he’d not got flustered and done the buttons wrong. Really wasn’t keen on his pattern or fabric choice for the tea dress, and he made quite a few mistakes. Hopefully it’s just nerves… But he definitely had on his best ballroom smile!
  • Ali – good, competent sewer. I liked some of her style choices and everything was well made. Being a paramedic she should cope with the stress well.
  • Angillia – felt a little like she was out of her comfort zone. She can obviously sew well (as shown in her tea dress) but not sure how well she’ll cope with time pressures.
  • Clare – love the vintage style! I really like her tea dress but she didn’t seem as confident on the pattern challenge and her transformation looked a little messy in places. Again, could be first week nerves…
  • Fiona – a little bit feisty at times (accusing Patrick of stretching her skirt!!! 😂). Wasn’t really keen on the feathers and her tea dress wasn’t finished, which is never a good sign.
  • Hazel – I liked the fork truck! She seems like a strong competent sewer but for some reason didn’t stand out. Maybe it’s just different taste in fabrics etc.
  • Liz – I like her slightly quirky style, plus she seems to be able to sew well. Like the corset-style top in the alteration challenge and loved her tea dress. (She also kinda reminds me of Kate Kane from Batwoman!!!)
  • Mark – my local sewer from Kenilworth! Plus he gets bonus points for the cute dog. Another one with a vintage-y style, and again, seems to be able to sew. And he appreciates the value of pockets! Always good.
  • Matt – love the title of Drag Designer in Chief!! He made an extremely good tea dress, but I wasn’t as keen on his skirt or transformation challenge.
  • Nicole – definitely made the wrong choice of fabric with her skirt and it’s never a good idea to not listen to the judges advice. She’s very distinctive but I think we have very different tastes.
  • Peter – he literally bled for his art – showing it’s not just me who can injure themselves sewing… He had two very strong challenges and I quite liked his tea dress, even if I wouldn’t wear it. He does need to work on his fitting though…
  • Therese – as you can tell from what I’ve written above, I think she could’ve one to watch. She’s obviously got a lot of skill and I adored her tea dress!

So, to sum up my current top pick are Liz, Therese, Peter and Ali. I can’t believe I now have to wait a while week for the next episode!

Oh well, off to see if I have any patterns for tea dresses…

Back to the beginning…

Tonight sees the return of the Great British Sewing Bee, so I thought it would be a good time to go back to where it all started: Season One.

On 2 April 2013, the first episode of this quirky little show aired on BBC2. I’m not sure anyone really knew what to expect or whether it would work. Would an hour of watching people really make for interesting TV?

The answer – at least for me – is a resounding yes!

Repeats of the first series started airing on Really last week, or on the Dplay app if, like me, you only stream things now. Perfect timing to get me in the mood for the new series.

As soon as the music starts, I’m smiling. It almost feels like coming home. Time to settle in…

As we enter the sewing room for the first time, I can see sewers I recognise, and a few that I appear to have completely forgotten. There’s Patrick and May – I miss May! Don’t get me wrong, I like Esme, but May’s like the Mary Berry of sewing, she’s just a bit more approachable and seemed to focus more on technique.

The first challenge is an A-line skirt. Relatively simple – not too many pattern pieces, a couple of darts and a zip. I feel like I might manage this one (emphasis on might). I’ve done darts before but zips quite frankly scare me.

During the challenge we get to know the contestants a little more. Some, like Sandra, Ann and Tilly, I recognise immediately. Jane and Michelle I seem to have forgotten completely, which doesn’t bode well. I think I remember Lauren, but I coul she mixing her up with someone from another season.

I have to say, I’m so jealous of how much space they have to cut out. Such a dedicated space is so different from hoping my folded fabric will fit on the kitchen table (I haven’t dared cut on the floor yet – might be tricky with wolfhound laid on your fabric).

(Side note: I love Tilly’s top, I keep getting distracted by wondering where I can find something with those sleeves. I’m also bobbing my head along to the music as I watch)

I love how different the eight skirts are. I think this is what got me interested in sewing right here, how people can take the same pattern and just take it in completely different directions.

The alteration challenge here is one of the most simple seen across the series – I think they were still feeling their way at this point. Still, varied success with the results. Sandra and Mark made a pig’s ear of it and Jane’s fringing is… different… Let’s leave it there.

(Side note 2: Do we think Ann’s capable of doing anything less than impeccably?)

On to the made to measure challenge, these are always my favourite. There’s more time for them to do something more complex and you get to see more of their personalities. Plus, I’m in awe of anyone who can make stuff for other people. I’m still grappling with making clothes for myself.

I vaguely remember some of these dresses and the designs are shown on screen (that reversible dress).

Wait – man down! Jane’s been taken ill. Who remembered there was this much drama in the first episode? Poor Jane. At this point, I can’t remember if she makes it back.

Looking at the final dresses you can start to see people step away from the pack – and not all for good reasons. Michelle obviously attempted too much and Lauren’s is way too snug – can the poor girl breathe? I like the look of Mark and Tilly’s dresses. Ann and Sandra’s are obviously well made, but I’m not as keen on the styles.

It’s not a massive surprise who leaves, though I think Stuart had a lucky escape. Hope he does better next week.

All in all, it’s been nice to go back to the first episode. There was so much I’d forgotten. I definitely think there’s been a shift more towards design rather than technique in more recent series, but I guess things can’t stay still. It will be interesting to see how it compares to the new series.

I’ll end with my favourite quote from the show, courtesy of Stewart:

I’ve never made a skirt before Claudia – let alone an A-line!

And said with such attitude!

Enjoy the new series everyone!

Getting back into the swing of things…

Hi everyone, long time, no see…

Over the last couple of years, I’ve not really sewn very much – partly because life’s been a bit busy, and partly because I was a little worried about how this sweetheart would react to my sewing machine (she’s not really a fan of loud noises)…

Large grey dog curled up in armchair

A snoozy Luna-pup

This is Luna. She’s half Irish Wolfhound, quarter Great Dane, quarter Standard Poodle and 100% adorable, giant fluffball. She’s just about to turn three & I’ll admit that cuddling/playing with her and her “big” sister Lyra has taken priority over sewing.

However, last week I decided I wanted to get going again. So I started rummaging through my stash of sewing/craft stuff and looking for a good project to help remind how to actually use my sewing machine again.

Sewing materials laid outAfter sifting through various patterns (almost all of them acquired through sewing magazines), I came across a pack of fat quarters I’d picked up from Aldi at some point in the past. Included in the set was instructions for making a patchwork tote bag, complete with lining. Stitching all the squares together would give me plenty of opportunity to practice with my machine again and I had everything I needed to get started. Perfect!

First job – I had to decided which fabrics to use for the outside of the bag and which to keep for the lining. I decided to use the two ginghams for the lining and the others for the outside.

Next job – cutting out. This took far longer than I expected. Who’d have thought 40 11cm squares would take so long..? The instructions included a template but I found it easier (and quicker) to just measure them out. Once everything was cut out, I laid out the squares to decide on a pattern for the sides (or at least one to aim for – more on that later…).



Then it was time for the squares. I decided to do the rows first, then sew the five rows together to make each side. Somehow, despite me laying them all out carefully, I’d managed to put the last row on the first side together wrong. By this point I’d done around four hours at my machine, I was tired, my back hurt & I decided I didn’t really care enough to unlock and re-sew that row – so I just went with it.


At this point I should point out that the sewing didn’t exactly go perfectly… To start off with I couldn’t remember how-to thread my machine or what any of the dials did. After a bit of googling I discovered that I’d actually done the top bobbin correctly and a YouTube video refreshed my memory on how to load my bottom bobbin (thank God for Google!). A bit of trial and error on offcuts and scraps helped me get to grips with the different settings and get my tension right, but that didn’t stop things from getting tangled – repeatedly… I can’t remember how many times I had to take the bottom bobbin out to detangle threads and remove loose threads. But at least rethreading is second nature to me now.

After I’d done both sides, it was time to tackle the straps. These were easy, until it came to turning them inside out. This was not fun. In lieu of knitting needles, I used a metal skewer to push the ends through – as long as I used the round end, this worked well.


Once I’d sewn the two patchwork sides together, and the two lining pieces, it was time to put everything together. When it came to the final construction, I decided not to follow the instructions. Technically, I was supposed to sew the bag & lining together, then attach the straps, I decided to do it all in one go so the ends of the straps would be hidden in the lining. It was fiddly getting everything lined up and pinned together, but I got there in the end.

Once I turned everything the right way out, I realised I’d not quite got the straps right, but I can live with it. I pressed everything and did some top stitching to strengthen the straps a little (some of which is neater than other bits).



Overall, I’m happy with my new bag. Yes it’s not perfect, but it’s all my own work. I’ve rediscovered how much I enjoy sewing and I’ve learnt a few lessons along the way:

  • Preparing properly makes things a lot easier. I was a little relaxed when cutting out my squares so they’re not all exactly the same size.
  • Pressing open seams takes long than you think, especially when there are so many of them!
  • I need to practice sewing in straight lines and controlling my speed – it nearly got away from me a couple of times.

I’m already planning my next project and my machine’s not going anywhere. Plus sewing bee returns soon so watch this space…

Babygros, Capes and Bridesmaid Dresses

Am I the only one who’s slightly obsessed with the Sewing Bee? Well to be honest it’s not just the Sewing Bee, I’ve watched the Bake Off since series two and I loved the Pottery Thrown-Down. Who doesn’t love a competition where one of the judges cries every week? Now admittedly the sewing bee isn’t quite so innuendo-laden as the other two, but it’s at leastly partly responsible for inspiring me to start sewing. 

Watching this year is a little different as now I’m looking for hints and tips, and sometimes I even know what they’re talking about now. After last week’s episode I now know that I don’t want to have to cut or sew on the bias anytime soon and I should never cut the length of a circle skirt by eye. I’ve also decided I’m never sewing with georgette.

This week on the sewing bee is children’s week. With a four year old goddaughter and two year old twin nieces, I really like the idea of making them something unique, so I’m paying close attention to what the sewers make this week.

First up is Babygros. Out of everything you could make for children, sewing babygros has never occurred to me. Just the thought of sewing something so tiny is more than a little daunting. Can you do babygros for ten year olds? I might be able to manage that size.

Personally, I thought most of the babygros were quite good. Charlotte’s looked almost professional and I really like Jamie’s as well, even if he did get into trouble for the using wrong binding.

Poor, poor Ghislaine – she just had a nightmare. Everything that could go wrong, did. Even Patrick didn’t know where to start…

Then we had the alteration challenge – that’s just mind boggling to me. How can you look at those bridesmaid dresses and see children’s outfits?

This year’s sewers don’t seem to be quite as adventurous in this challenge. After last week’s array of skirts, we had a row full of party dresses. Let’s hope they’re just getting warmed up and we’ll see a bit more variety in future.

Personally, I quite liked Josh’s little gilet. Yes it didn’t even vaguely fit the mannequin, but when everyone’s work was lined up that was the one that stood out to me. And Ghislaine managed to redeem herself a bit with that very cute little boxing outfit ( wasn’t there a very similar outfit in last year’s children’s week?).

For the final challenge we moved onto capes. Not sure how many kids actually wear capes but these were very cute. I suspect there may be some capes in my nieces’ futures – if I’m ever brave enough that is.

There were a few stand outs for me in this challenge. Angeline’s red and tartan cape was just beautiful. Can she do an adult version for me too. Jamie’s Sherlock Holmes inspired cape was fairly impressive as well. All that kid needed was a deerstalker, violin and pipe.

Ghislaine didn’t do well again. Was it just me or did the scallops on the cape not match her template? Maybe she should have gone with a pattern after all.

I don’t think anyone will have been surprised that Ghislaine went this week. Not even the mini boxer’s outfit could save her. 

So next week we can look forward to the sewers making lingerie. Looking at the preview clip – I think I agree with Jade!

Summary of week two:

  • New terms learnt:
    • Bagging out – love that expression
    • Bouncy seams…
  • New addition to my project list:
    • Two wool capes with tartan godets (and possibly appliqué butterflies) – how does that sound girls?