I did it! My first top!

So, having finally remembered how to use my machine, I decided to bite the bullet and try my hand at making an item of clothing. First decision was what to make. I have a stash of patterns I’ve collected from sewing magazines but I’ve never tried making any of them. Most of them are dresses and I decided I wasn’t quite ready to tackle zips or anything yet. Plus I really wanted to make something with what I had on hand.

So I dug this out:

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I was given this as part of my Christmas present a few years ago (thanks Mum and Dad), but had never done more than flick through it and imagine what I could make. After looking at the different projects, I decided to start at the beginning – the Sleeveless Shell Top. I figured it would be a good piece to start with as it included:

  • Only four pattern pieces
  • A simple button/loop fastening at the back
  • No sleeves to worry about
  • No bias binding – the neckline and armholes are finished with the facing

Seemed all good. Then I got the pattern sheet out… I mean – what on earth is this?!?

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Terrifying! It looks more like a blue print for a house or something.

Once I’d calmed down from my initial panic, I figured out which bits I needed and got tracing. After looking at the measurements I decided I needed to combine two sizes, so read May’s instructions on how to do that (which I think I managed ok).

Pattern ready to go, I got my fabric out. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough of the fabric I’d hoped to use, but I had a back up ready. Until I had two metres of fabric out on my kitchen table, I thought it was a decent size. Turns out oval tables aren’t ideal for laying out and pinning patterns, but I got there in the end (yes I could have used the floor, but this one would have tried to “help”…).

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Anyway, I got everything cut out ready to start. Thanks to my Sewing Guru (aka Mum), I knew how to transfer notches and to use tailors tacks for darts, so that bit wasn’t too daunting. I was ready to start!

At this point I should make it clear that it took around three days for me to get to this stage, making sure I’d cut everything out properly and that I’d got the grainline straight etc. It then took another couple of days before I was brave enough to remove the pattern paper and actually start sewing…

 

First job: staystitching the neckline. I’d never done this before, but it was fairly straightforward so no problems here. Then came the interfacing…

This should have been simple, especially as I’ve used interfacing before, but could I remember what I’d done? No…

Do I cut it to shape then attach? Or do I fuse the pattern pieces to the interfacing, then trim around them? I couldn’t for the life of me remember and a phonecall to the Sewing Guru wasn’t masses of help (“I think you can do it either way”). In the end, I cut the interfacing nearly to size with the pattern pieces, then trimmed once I’d fused everything together. Seemed to work ok, but any suggestions welcome. At least I didn’t get anything stuck on the iron (which I was worried about, to be honest).

Next up was darts. I felt more confident with these. I’ve done them a couple of times now, even if I’ve not finished the items they were part of. After that was shoulder seams, on both the outer top and the facing. Again, relatively simple – short, straight seams with straight stitch. Nothing to worry about there.

Then came the instruction “neaten the seams”. Not done this before but, following a quick check of the book, I now know how to do this. I used the zig-zag stitch option, with mixed results. I think I need to practice using my zig-zag stitch much more as I haven’t quite got the hang of it or of how close to go to the edge. It was fine to start off with but then I couldn’t quite get the tension right on later seams, even after a Skype conflab with the Sewing Guru.

Once I’d neatened the shoulder seams and the edges of the facing, it was time to attach the facing to the top at the neckline. I managed this without too many problems and wasn’t too fazed by clipping the seam allowance so it all sat flat.

Then came another new term – understitching. This turned out to be quite tricky – not helped by my thread running out partway along a seam that was going perfectly. But I got there in the end – thank heavens for quick unpickers.

After attaching the loop, it was time to attach the facing at the armhole and centre back. Again not too complicated, so I managed this without too much trouble. But then came the big moment – turning the facing through.

This would be when the top would really start to take shape. At this point, the diagrams in the book were more helpful than the instructions. I didn’t have a safety pin to hand but managed without too much trouble. I actually had something that looked like a top!

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At this point, it was relatively smooth sailing. Two straight side seams and one straight seam down the back. Pinning this properly was the biggest challenge. I was paranoid about my notches and seams not matching up so I put a pit either side of those to stop them shifting, then eased the rest of the seams together. Other than the seam neatening issue I mentioned above, sewing these seams wasn’t too much trouble.

In the book, it says to machine stitch the hem, but with the issues I’m having with zig-zagging I’ve decided to hem by hand. I’m more confident doing it that way and I know I can do a good job (if a slow one).

So there it is – a finished top (well nearly)! I don’t think it looks too bad. What do you guys think?

My finished top.

I’m partway round on the hem and have a button to sew on, but I was so proud of it, I couldn’t wait to share.

Back with a bang!

Last night saw the much anticipated return of the sewing bee. This is always one of the highlights of my year. The show is what inspired me to start sewing and each episode gives me new ideas for things I could make. And the new series seems to be no exception…

Returning to the sewing room is like reuniting with old friends, even though we’ve not yet met any of this year’s sewers.

This week’s (this season’s) first challenge is wrap skirts. As usual, while the sewers rummage through the stacks of fabric my initial thought is “I want the haberdashery”. Am I alone in this? To just pick up a pattern and be able to choose from such a range of fabrics there and then would be amazing.

Incidentally, have the desks/sewing stations always been different pastel colours? I’ve never noticed it before…

The finished skirts range from beautifully made (Therese’s, Ali’s and Peter’s really stood out to me) to a little messy (though I don’t think I’d have like Nicole’s even if it had gone perfectly – shiny and gold’s not my thing). It’s still a little early to tell much about our sewers yet though.

Next up is the transformation challenge (I still think of it as the alteration challenge). I think this is the part of the show where you can see the biggest change between now and the early season’s. In the first season they were given a specific task to do (change the neckline of this top, add some patch pockets on this skirt etc) and they were judged on execution as well as the difference they made to the garment. Over the seasons, this has shifted to more and more radical transformations. Sometimes I like the end results, sometimes I’m less impressed – although it’s always fun to see what everyone comes up with.

Taking two men’s shirts and creating an item of women’s clothing should sound bonkers, but having seen some of the previous transformations, nothing surprises me any more. I quite like the idea of trying this, but as Boyfriend only as two shirts total, cutting them up might not go down well…

Not sure I’d have ranked them exactly how the judges did (Liz and Therese’s were my favourites), but I’ve seen a lot of negative comments online about Peter’s dress. Now, while it might not be to my taste, I can appreciate the skill, creativity and amount of work that went into it. Yes, there was sewing involved. You actually saw him with a needle and thread. He may have draped it on the dummy to get the shape but then he sewed everything into place, just like we saw with Chinelo (sp?) a few years ago.

Right – rant over. On to made to measure. As I said in my last post, this is always my favourite challenge and where we finally get to see a bit more of who the sewers really are. My personal favourites were Liz’s (again), Therese’s (spot a pattern yet?) and Clare’s. Matt’s was very pretty and well made but I wasn’t keen on the fabric.

I’m not going to spoil who’s left and who got garment of the week, but here are my initial thoughts on each sewer so far:

  • Alex – his skirt could have been ok if he’d not got flustered and done the buttons wrong. Really wasn’t keen on his pattern or fabric choice for the tea dress, and he made quite a few mistakes. Hopefully it’s just nerves… But he definitely had on his best ballroom smile!
  • Ali – good, competent sewer. I liked some of her style choices and everything was well made. Being a paramedic she should cope with the stress well.
  • Angillia – felt a little like she was out of her comfort zone. She can obviously sew well (as shown in her tea dress) but not sure how well she’ll cope with time pressures.
  • Clare – love the vintage style! I really like her tea dress but she didn’t seem as confident on the pattern challenge and her transformation looked a little messy in places. Again, could be first week nerves…
  • Fiona – a little bit feisty at times (accusing Patrick of stretching her skirt!!! 😂). Wasn’t really keen on the feathers and her tea dress wasn’t finished, which is never a good sign.
  • Hazel – I liked the fork truck! She seems like a strong competent sewer but for some reason didn’t stand out. Maybe it’s just different taste in fabrics etc.
  • Liz – I like her slightly quirky style, plus she seems to be able to sew well. Like the corset-style top in the alteration challenge and loved her tea dress. (She also kinda reminds me of Kate Kane from Batwoman!!!)
  • Mark – my local sewer from Kenilworth! Plus he gets bonus points for the cute dog. Another one with a vintage-y style, and again, seems to be able to sew. And he appreciates the value of pockets! Always good.
  • Matt – love the title of Drag Designer in Chief!! He made an extremely good tea dress, but I wasn’t as keen on his skirt or transformation challenge.
  • Nicole – definitely made the wrong choice of fabric with her skirt and it’s never a good idea to not listen to the judges advice. She’s very distinctive but I think we have very different tastes.
  • Peter – he literally bled for his art – showing it’s not just me who can injure themselves sewing… He had two very strong challenges and I quite liked his tea dress, even if I wouldn’t wear it. He does need to work on his fitting though…
  • Therese – as you can tell from what I’ve written above, I think she could’ve one to watch. She’s obviously got a lot of skill and I adored her tea dress!

So, to sum up my current top pick are Liz, Therese, Peter and Ali. I can’t believe I now have to wait a while week for the next episode!

Oh well, off to see if I have any patterns for tea dresses…